| Day
1: |
You will be met at Jomo Kenyatta
International Airport in Nairobi and transferred to
a hotel in the Karen suburb of the city. The rest
of the day can be spent at your leisure. |
Day
2: |
Early morning flight to Tsavo
West National Park. We have lunch in Tsavo, and reach
our camp below Mzima Springs in the late afternoon.
Overnight Mzima Springs Camp. |
Day
3: |
We rise with first light, and
after breakfast we begin our foot safari across the
vast 8,300 square mile wilderness that is Tsavo. Our
route closely follows the Tsavo River, flanked by
rich riverine vegetation, as we walk along hippo trails
winding their way through thickets of fig and tamarind
trees, doum and raffia palms. The craggy, sharp-rising
Ngulia Mountains offer a dramatic backdrop to this
section of the river, as the early morning produces
a fascinating play of light across the range, when
the clouds lift to present the orange-coloured rocky
peaks. This part of the Tsavo River will produce many
hippo sightings, as well as plains game such as Lesser
kudu, gerenuk, and Maasai giraffe. Our walk today
will cover a distance of 10 miles, and we will arrive
at our camp in time for a large lunch. Like all our
camps, this one is situated on the banks of the Tsavo
River, below the highest peak of the Ngulia range.
The afternoon is set aside for siesta, and in the
late afternoon we'll drive to Mzima Springs - one
of Tsavo's treasures. Overnight Kudu Camp. |
Day
4: |
They say that in order to experience
the wonders of the African bush, it is essential one
does precisely as the animals do - our daily routine
therefore emulates the schedule of the wildlife. Up
at first light, eat a fresh breakfast, and head out
along the path. Today our foot safari will make its
way along a 12 mile course, following game trails
along the Tsavo River, as it winds across the country
below Ngulia Mountain. We are now entering a region
renowned for its elephant populations, and you will
be amazed at how close we can safely approach this
great animal. As the morning moves along, our route
leads us to a point beneath the spectacular Kichwa
Tembo (elephant's head) peak. This dramatic 3,000
foot spire soars above the banks of the Tsavo River,
and it is appropriately known to the Taita people
as the "guardian of the plains". We reach
our camp in time for lunch, followed by a well-earned
siesta (the animals insist on this too). This region
of Tsavo West was the location of intense fighting
during the First World War. Tanzania was then known
as German East Africa, while Kenya was British East
Africa. The Tsavo River was of vital logistical importance
during the battle for Kilimanjaro - it offered, for
the British, a well-watered direct route to the mountain,
while the German's were well aware of it's comparative
easy access to the British railway, linking the Kenyan
coast (Mombasa) to the interior (Nairobi). This railway
was blown up several times. As a result of this the
Tsavo River region was heavily fortified, and today
many indications of the First World War still exist.
Overnight Kichwa Tembo Camp. |
Day
5: |
A 10 mile walk distances us from
the peaks of Ngulia and Kichwa Tembo, as we enter
drier country leading to Maji Ya Chumvi (salt water).
As with every day on our foot safari, wildlife is
continually encountered. Impala, Grant's gazelle,
zebra and giraffe are frequently seen. Tsavo is the
largest elephant ecosystem in the world, and the Tsavo
River is a vital destination for them. After lunch
and siesta, we will have an optional game-drive down
the river, and for those of us willing, climb Kinyiki
Hill for a spectacular overview of the endless Tsavo
wilderness. Overnight Maji Ya Chumvi Camp. |
Day
6: |
Today the Tsavo River leads us
into the area of the famous "Maneaters Of Tsavo".
Our morning walk of about 7 miles takes us to the
region where in 1896 two lions ruthlessly (and, somehow
inspiringly), halted the advance of the British Empire
literally in its tracks. During a three month period,
while the British were building the railway bridge
across the Tsavo River, using imported labourers from
India, these lions ate over 130 men. They were eventually,
after exhaustive effort, killed by Col. John Paterson.
Again we reach camp in time for lunch, and after a
short siesta (today we trounce the wildlife), we continue
our foot safari in the late afternoon for a further
4 miles to Tsavo Bridge, which still proudly stands
in pristine condition. We are met here by our vehicles
and driven back to camp. Interestingly enough this
region today sports a large lion population, and we
often see them as they take advantage of the shade
offered by doum palms on the banks of the river, and
hear them at night from our camp. Overnight Maneaters
Camp. |
Day
7: |
We drive the short distance to
Tsavo Bridge, and continue our walk down the river.
Today we enter Tsavo East National Park (owing to
the immensity of Tsavo, for administrative purposes,
it has been divided into two separate regions: Tsavo
West National Park and Tsavo East National Park. At
this point the Tsavo River makes its way down towards
the confluence of the Athi River, beneath the prominent
Yatta Plateau, where it forms the Galana River at
a place called Tabagunji. Our walk today is about
8 miles, across country dominated by many rock kopje's
(outcrops). We reach our waiting vehicles in the late
morning, and drive to our camp at Lugards Falls. After
lunch and siesta, we game-drive down the Galana River.
Overnight Lugards Falls Camp. |
Day
8: |
We have now entered a different
ecosystem. The dense undergrowth of Tsavo West has
now given way to semi-desert country, bordered to
the north by the Yatta Plateau (the longest lava flow
on earth - 260 miles in length). In this country,
because of its openness, game is easier to see and
there is a lot of it. The Galana River is about 100
yards wide, and is characterised by wide sandy beaches,
and palm trees. It sports one of the largest lion
populations in East Africa, as well as a wealth of
plains game (including the very rare Peter's gazelle).
Big herds of zebra, hartebeest, impala and Fringe-eared
oryx are frequently seen along the Galana River. This
is also the region of Tsavo's biggest elephant populations.
Our walk today is about 10 miles and takes us to our
camp, which is located at the point of the Yatta Plateau.
We game-drive the river in the late afternoon. Overnight
Epiya Chapeyu Camp. |
Days
9: |
We are now in one of the most
remote wilderness areas of East Africa, in a world
of stunning beauty. To see a herd of elephants, silently
loping across the sand to the rivers edge, then wading
through the blue water to the distant shore, is a
sight which can't be improved. At this point of our
safari, one can easily, and naturally, feel as much
a part of the wilderness as the wildlife we are seeing.
Without doubt our senses have awakened to a state
where we can instinctively hear, see, and feel things,
that no amount of concentration at the beginning of
our walk could ever have produced. Our 12 mile walk
takes us to our camp for lunch and a well-earned rest.
As is the norm, we'll game-drive along the river late
in the day. Overnight Epiya Chapeyu Camp. |
Day
10: |
During the past few years, Tropical
Ice has been conducting our own Galana River lion
research project. We are the only people working in
this region, and our experiences with lion contacts
whilst walking, has enabled us to assist in unravelling
some of the mysteries surrounding the lions of this
area. And there are many unanswered questions. Why
are most of the male lions maneless? Why do the male
lions seem to do most of the hunting (this is usually
the role of the female)? Why do these Galana River
lions display more aggression than lions in other
parts of Africa (remember the Maneaters of Tsavo -
they were two maneless male lions)? Our research project
has been mainly involved in pride identification,
recording numbers within each pride, and pride movements
(how far do they range?). We have now amassed a considerable
amount of information, and have developed a good idea
of where the lions of the Galana are located from
month to month. As our foot safari continues down
the Galana River, it is highly likely we'll be able
to make contact with some of these lions. Lunch is
in camp, followed by late afternoon game drives. Overnight
Durusikale Camp. |
Day
11& 12: |
For the remainder of our foot
safari we will base ourselves out our large semi-permanent
camp at Durusirkale, as we walk down toward the Koito
area, and finally Sala, on the eastern boundary of
Tsavo. Vehicles will collect us after each day's walk
and return us to camp. We feel the afternoon game
drives are an essential part of this safari. The river
sparkles in the rich golden light of the late afternoon,
and wildlife can easily be seen. Overnight Durusikale
Camp. |
| Day
13: |
| We will drive from our camp at Durusikale to Koito
(where we ended the day before), for the final 11 mile
walk to Sala gate. After a picnic lunch we board our
vehicles and drive east with a stop at our
Timboni School project, we arrive at Hemingways
Hotel on the Indian Ocean coast later in the afternoon.
Once we become accustomed to being back in civilization,
we can begin to enjoy the well earned rest. A farewell
dinner and celebration await as the ocean breezes billow
the sails of the passing dhow. |
Day
14: |
| A leisurely breakfast can be followed by a short excursion
to the Gedi ruins, an old Swahili town that was destroyed
by the Zimba cannibals in the 15th century. (The Gedi
ruins are now a fascinating and evocative archaeological
site.). We have dayrooms at the Hemingways Hotel, with
lunch on your own. After our afternoon scheduled flight
to Nairobi we have a few hours in Nairobi at the hotel
before departure on your homeward-bound flights.
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